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There’s nothing worse than waking up to a fresh blanket of snow, heading to your garage ready to clear the driveway, and finding your snowblower refuses to start. I’ve been there countless times, and after years of helping neighbors troubleshoot their machines, I’ve learned that most starting problems fall into predictable categories that you can fix yourself in under an hour.
According to Briggs & Stratton, one of the leading snowblower engine manufacturers, a properly maintained snowblower should start within three pulls. If yours takes more than that—or won’t start at all—this guide will walk you through systematic troubleshooting steps that have saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs over the years.
Before we dive into specific fixes, remember that safety comes first. Always work with the snowblower outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, disconnect the spark plug wire before performing any maintenance, and never attempt repairs while the engine is hot. With those precautions in mind, let’s get your snowblower running again.
Most snowblower starting problems stem from issues that develop during the off-season. When I talk to folks at our local small engine repair shop, they tell me that 80% of the snowblowers that come in simply have fuel-related problems that could have been prevented with proper storage.
Consumer Reports testing reveals that the seven most common snowblower problems are surprisingly straightforward to diagnose and often simple to fix. The key is approaching troubleshooting systematically rather than randomly trying different solutions. I’ve learned this the hard way after spending an entire afternoon disassembling parts that weren’t even the problem.
Your snowblower needs three basic things to start: fresh fuel delivered properly to the engine, a spark to ignite that fuel, and sufficient compression to create combustion. When any of these elements fails, your snowblower won’t start. The good news is that checking each component follows a logical sequence that typically reveals the culprit within 20 minutes.
Before you grab your toolbox, run through these quick checks that solve more starting problems than you might expect. I once spent an hour troubleshooting a neighbor’s snowblower only to discover the fuel valve was simply turned off—a humbling but educational experience.
First, check if there’s actually fuel in the tank. This sounds obvious, but fuel evaporates during storage, and what looked like a quarter tank in spring might be empty come winter. If there is fuel, consider when you last filled the tank. According to AMSOIL’s technical experts, gasoline begins degrading in as little as 30 days, and fuel left from last season is almost certainly too stale to start your engine.
Next, locate your fuel valve (usually a small lever or knob near the carburetor) and ensure it’s in the “on” position. Some models have a fuel filter you can see through—if it looks dark or clogged, that’s likely part of your problem. Also check that the fuel cap vent isn’t blocked by ice or debris, as this can create a vacuum that prevents fuel flow.
Modern snowblowers include several safety features that prevent starting if not properly engaged. Check that the ignition key is fully inserted and turned to “on.” Some models won’t start without the key, even if everything else is perfect. The dead man’s switch on the handle must be properly engaged on many models, and the auger control lever should be in the disengaged position.
If your snowblower has an electric start, verify the power cord is connected and the outlet is working. Test the outlet with another device to rule out electrical issues. The choke should be in the closed (or “start”) position for cold starts—this is another surprisingly common oversight that prevents starting.
Now we’ll work through the systematic troubleshooting process I use every time. This approach has helped me diagnose problems quickly without wasting time or money on unnecessary parts.
Fuel issues cause the majority of snowblower starting problems, so we’ll start here. If your fuel is more than 30 days old, drain it completely. I use a siphon pump to remove old fuel from the tank, then run the engine (if it starts briefly) to clear the lines. Never use fuel that smells varnish-like or looks darker than fresh gasoline.
Replace with fresh fuel, ideally 91-octane non-oxygenated if available in your area. Add fuel stabilizer immediately—even to fresh fuel—to prevent future degradation. I’ve found that spending an extra dollar per gallon on premium fuel saves significant headaches compared to dealing with carburetor problems later.
If fresh fuel doesn’t solve the problem, check the fuel line for cracks or blockages. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor (have a container ready to catch fuel) and verify fuel flows freely when you open the valve. No flow indicates a clogged filter, blocked line, or faulty fuel valve that needs replacement.
The spark plug is your next checkpoint. Remove it using a spark plug socket (usually 5/8″ or 13/16″) and examine its condition. A healthy plug should have a light tan or gray deposit on the electrode. Black, oily deposits indicate the engine is running too rich, while white deposits suggest it’s running too lean.
Check the gap using a spark plug gauge—most snowblower plugs need a gap between 0.020″ and 0.030″ (check your manual for exact specifications). Even if the plug looks okay, I recommend replacing it if it’s more than two seasons old. At $3-8, a new plug is cheap insurance against starting problems.
To test if you’re getting spark, reconnect the plug wire, hold the plug threads against the engine block (wear insulated gloves), and have someone pull the starter cord. You should see a blue spark jump the gap. No spark indicates an ignition coil problem, which typically requires professional repair unless you’re comfortable with electrical work.
If fuel and spark check out, the carburetor is likely your culprit. Stale fuel leaves varnish deposits that clog the tiny passages inside the carburetor, preventing proper fuel delivery. While you can remove and rebuild the entire carburetor, I’ve found that carburetor cleaner spray solves most problems without complete disassembly.
First, remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner directly into the carburetor throat while someone pulls the starter cord. If the engine fires briefly, you’ve confirmed a fuel delivery problem. Next, locate the carburetor bowl (the round bottom part) and remove the bolt at its center. Be ready for fuel to drain out. Clean any sediment from the bowl and spray cleaner up into the main jet.
For stubborn cases, you might need to remove the carburetor entirely for thorough cleaning. This involves disconnecting the fuel line, throttle linkage, and mounting bolts. Soak all metal parts in carburetor cleaner for 30 minutes, then blow out all passages with compressed air. Reassemble carefully, ensuring all gaskets are properly seated.
If your snowblower still won’t start, compression problems might be the cause. Pull the starter cord slowly—you should feel significant resistance as the piston compresses air. Weak or no resistance indicates worn piston rings or valve problems that typically require professional repair.
On four-stroke engines, valve clearance can change over time, affecting compression and starting. While adjusting valves isn’t terribly complex, it requires specific measurements and tools that vary by model. If you suspect valve issues, consult your manual or consider professional service, as incorrect adjustment can cause serious engine damage.
Check also for a sheared flywheel key, especially if the snowblower hit something hard last season. This small metal piece times the ignition, and if sheared, the engine won’t start despite having fuel and spark. Replacing it requires removing the flywheel, which most DIYers can handle with the right puller tool.
Sometimes your snowblower exhibits specific symptoms that point directly to certain problems. Learning to recognize these patterns has saved me countless hours of unnecessary troubleshooting.
If you smell strong gasoline or see fuel dripping from the air filter area, you’ve likely flooded the engine. This happens when too much fuel enters the combustion chamber, often from over-priming or leaving the choke closed too long. To fix this, remove the spark plug and pull the starter cord several times to expel excess fuel. Let the engine air out for 15 minutes, then reinstall the plug and try starting with the choke open.
For severely flooded engines, you might need to remove and dry the spark plug completely, or even replace it if it’s fuel-soaked. Some folks have success using starting fluid (ether) sprayed into the spark plug hole, though use this sparingly as it’s hard on engines.
When your snowblower starts but dies within seconds, suspect a fuel delivery issue. The initial start likely runs on residual fuel in the carburetor, but dies when that’s exhausted. Check that the fuel valve is fully open and the tank vent isn’t blocked. A partially clogged carburetor jet might allow enough fuel for starting but not sustained running.
This symptom can also indicate a governed speed control problem. The governor maintains engine speed under varying loads, and if it’s stuck or misadjusted, the engine might shut down thinking it’s over-revving. Governor adjustment is model-specific, so consult your manual if you suspect this issue.
Snowblowers naturally start harder in extreme cold, but excessive difficulty indicates problems. Use the correct oil viscosity for winter—5W-30 synthetic oil works well in most snowblowers down to -20°F. Thicker oil creates excessive drag on cold engine parts, making starting nearly impossible.
Consider installing an engine block heater if you regularly deal with sub-zero temperatures. These small heating elements warm the oil before starting, dramatically improving cold-weather performance. Some people successfully use a trouble light with an incandescent bulb placed near the engine for 30 minutes before starting, though be careful not to create a fire hazard.
After fixing countless snowblowers, I’ve learned that prevention truly is the best medicine. Following this maintenance schedule will prevent most starting problems and extend your snowblower’s life significantly.
Proper storage prevents 90% of next season’s starting problems. Run the engine until the fuel tank is empty, or add fuel stabilizer and run the engine for 10 minutes to circulate treated fuel through the system. I prefer the stabilizer method as it prevents fuel system corrosion during storage.
Change the oil while the engine is warm—dirty oil contains acids that corrode internal parts during storage. Remove the spark plug and spray a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder, then pull the starter cord slowly to coat the cylinder walls. This prevents corrosion and stuck rings that cause compression loss.
Clean the entire machine thoroughly, paying special attention to the auger housing and chute where road salt accelerates corrosion. Apply a light coating of spray lubricant to all cables and linkages. Store your snowblower in a dry location with a breathable cover that prevents moisture buildup.
Before the first snow, perform these checks to ensure reliable starting all winter. Replace the spark plug even if last year’s looks okay—it’s cheap insurance. Check and tighten all bolts, especially on the auger and housing, as vibration loosens them over time.
Test the electric starter if equipped, and inspect the pull cord for fraying. Replace worn parts now rather than discovering problems during a blizzard. Fill with fresh fuel and run the engine for 15 minutes, checking for smooth operation and proper throttle response.
Inspect the belts for cracks or excessive wear, and adjust or replace as needed. Check tire pressure on wheeled models—proper inflation dramatically improves handling and reduces operator fatigue. Most snowblower tires need 15-20 PSI, but check your manual for specifications.
Regular maintenance during snow season prevents minor issues from becoming major problems. Check the oil level before each use—running low on oil can destroy an engine in minutes. I keep a small bottle of oil in my garage specifically for quick top-offs.
After every 5 hours of use, check the shear pins on the auger. These sacrificial pins protect the gear case by breaking if you hit something solid. Keep spare pins on hand—trying to find them during a storm is frustrating and expensive. Also check that the skid shoes haven’t worn excessively, as this affects clearing performance and can damage your driveway.
Never use old fuel, even if it’s just from last month. The small cost of fresh fuel pales compared to carburetor cleaning or replacement. Add fuel stabilizer to every tank, especially if you don’t use your snowblower frequently. This practice alone has eliminated starting problems for many of my neighbors.
While I encourage DIY maintenance, some repairs require professional expertise or specialized tools. Knowing when to call for help saves time, money, and potential injury from attempting repairs beyond your skill level.
If you’ve worked through all troubleshooting steps and your snowblower still won’t start, internal engine problems likely require professional diagnosis. Symptoms like metal shavings in the oil, knocking sounds from the engine, or complete loss of compression indicate serious internal damage.
Electrical problems beyond simple spark plug replacement often need professional attention. If you’re not getting spark and replacing the plug doesn’t help, the ignition coil, flywheel magnets, or wiring might be faulty. These repairs require electrical testing equipment and expertise to diagnose properly.
Governor adjustments, valve timing, and carburetor rebuilds on newer fuel-injected models should generally be left to professionals. These systems require precise adjustments and special tools that make DIY repair impractical for most people.
According to Consumer Reports, professional snowblower repair typically costs between $75 and $300, depending on the problem. Simple fixes like carburetor cleaning might run $75-100, while internal engine repairs can exceed the value of older machines.
Consider your snowblower’s age and replacement cost when deciding whether to repair or replace. If repair costs exceed 50% of replacement value on a machine over 10 years old, replacement might be more economical. However, quality snowblowers can last 20+ years with proper maintenance, making repair worthwhile for well-maintained machines.
Many dealers offer pre-season tune-up specials for $50-75 that include spark plug replacement, carburetor adjustment, and belt inspection. This preventive service costs less than emergency repairs and ensures reliable operation when you need it most. If you’re not comfortable performing maintenance yourself, these tune-ups provide excellent value.
Different snowblower types have unique starting characteristics and common problems. Understanding your specific type helps target troubleshooting efforts more effectively.
Single-stage models are the simplest, with the auger both collecting and throwing snow. These typically have two-stroke engines that require oil mixed with fuel. Starting problems often stem from incorrect fuel mixture—too much oil fouls plugs, while too little damages the engine. Always use the manufacturer’s specified ratio, typically 50:1 or 40:1.
These lightweight machines are more susceptible to carburetor problems from fuel degradation since their small carburetors clog easily. The pull-start mechanism sees heavy use and the cord might need periodic replacement. Keep the auger paddle rubber in good condition, as worn paddles reduce performance and strain the engine.
Two-stage models have separate auger and impeller systems, typically with four-stroke engines that are generally more reliable but require regular oil changes. These machines often include electric start, adding another potential failure point but making cold-weather starting much easier.
The additional complexity means more potential problems, but also easier diagnosis since systems are separate. Shear pin failures are common if you hit hidden objects, but protect the expensive gear case from damage. The friction disc that controls forward speed can wear or slip, though this affects movement rather than starting.
Three-stage models add an accelerator that breaks up snow before the impeller, improving throwing distance and performance in heavy snow. These premium machines typically have the most reliable engines and starting systems, but repairs cost more when problems occur.
Their additional complexity means following the maintenance schedule religiously is even more important. The extra auger components need proper adjustment and lubrication to prevent excessive engine strain that can cause starting difficulties. However, when properly maintained, these machines offer the most reliable starting and operation.
Throughout all troubleshooting and repair work, safety must remain your top priority. I’ve seen too many preventable injuries from rushed repairs or ignored safety procedures.
Always disconnect the spark plug wire before working on any part of the snowblower that could move. This simple step prevents accidental starting that could cause serious injury. Work in a well-ventilated area when dealing with fuel or running the engine—carbon monoxide poisoning is a real danger in enclosed spaces.
Never attempt to clear a clogged chute with your hands, even with the engine off. Use a clearing tool or stick, as the auger might still have stored energy that releases unexpectedly. Keep children and pets away from your work area, and never leave tools or parts where someone might trip over them.
When working with fuel, have a fire extinguisher nearby and avoid any ignition sources. Clean up fuel spills immediately and dispose of fuel-soaked rags properly—they can spontaneously combust if left in a pile. If you’re ever unsure about a repair procedure, stop and seek professional help rather than risk injury or equipment damage.
While maintaining your snowblower, consider the environmental impact of your actions. Proper maintenance not only ensures reliable starting but also reduces emissions and fuel consumption. Following eco-friendly maintenance practices extends to outdoor power equipment care.
Dispose of old fuel, oil, and filters properly at a recycling center or hazardous waste facility. Never dump these fluids on the ground or in storm drains, as they contaminate groundwater and harm wildlife. Many auto parts stores accept used oil and filters for free recycling.
Consider using biodegradable lubricants and cleaners when possible. While they might cost slightly more, they reduce environmental impact without sacrificing performance. Keeping your snowblower well-maintained also means it runs more efficiently, using less fuel and producing fewer emissions per hour of operation.
The most common reason is stale fuel that has gummed up the carburetor. Gasoline degrades after 30 days, and fuel left from last season won’t properly combust. Drain old fuel, clean the carburetor, and refill with fresh gas. Also check that the spark plug hasn’t corroded during storage and that no mice have nested in the engine compartment or chewed through wires.
Replace the spark plug at the start of each season or after every 100 hours of use, whichever comes first. Even if the old plug looks fine, a fresh plug ensures reliable starting and optimal performance. At $3-8 each, annual replacement is cheap insurance against starting problems during critical snow removal times.
Yes, but ensure you use the correct viscosity for winter conditions. Most snowblowers require 5W-30 oil for cold weather operation. Never use single-grade oils like SAE 30 in winter, as they become too thick in cold temperatures. Synthetic oils work especially well in snowblowers, providing better cold-flow properties and longer change intervals.
Use fresh 87-octane or higher gasoline with no more than 10% ethanol (E10). If available, ethanol-free fuel is ideal as it stores better and causes fewer carburetor problems. Always add fuel stabilizer, even to fresh fuel, to prevent degradation. Premium 91-octane fuel isn’t necessary unless specified by your manufacturer but can provide slightly better storage stability.
There are two acceptable approaches: run it completely dry or fill it with stabilized fuel. Running dry prevents fuel from gumming up the carburetor but can allow moisture to cause corrosion. Storing with stabilized fuel prevents corrosion but requires you to run the engine monthly during storage. I prefer the stabilized fuel method with proper fuel treatment.
Try cleaning first—it solves 90% of carburetor problems. If cleaning doesn’t restore proper operation, or if you find corrosion, damaged gaskets, or worn throttle shafts, replacement might be necessary. A new carburetor typically costs $30-80 and might be more economical than extensive rebuilding on older machines.
Check the power outlet first with another device. Examine the power cord for damage and ensure it’s fully connected to both the outlet and snowblower. The electric starter motor might have failed, or there could be an internal gear problem. If the outlet and cord check out, the starter likely needs professional repair or replacement.
Rough running typically indicates partially clogged carburetor jets, water in the fuel, or incorrect governor adjustment. Start by draining the fuel and replacing with fresh gas. If that doesn’t help, the carburetor needs thorough cleaning. Also check for air leaks around the carburetor mounting gasket, as these cause erratic running.
Getting your snowblower started doesn’t have to be a frustrating ordeal. By following this systematic troubleshooting approach, you’ll identify and fix most problems quickly and economically. Remember that prevention through proper maintenance is far easier than repair, and a few minutes of care during the season prevents hours of frustration when you need your snowblower most.
Start with the simple checks—fuel, spark plug, and safety switches solve most problems. If those don’t work, methodically work through fuel delivery and carburetor issues. Know when to seek professional help, especially for internal engine problems or complex electrical issues.
Most importantly, don’t wait until the first major snowstorm to discover your snowblower won’t start. Perform pre-season maintenance when you have time to address problems properly. If you need to tackle similar maintenance on other outdoor equipment, our guide on outdoor equipment maintenance provides valuable insights.
With proper care and timely troubleshooting, your snowblower should provide years of reliable service. Keep this guide handy for reference, and you’ll be ready to tackle whatever winter throws your way. Stay safe, maintain your equipment regularly, and enjoy the satisfaction of fixing problems yourself while saving money in the process.
For those considering backup power options for their winter equipment and home, check out our comprehensive home generator sizing guide to ensure you’re never left without power during winter storms.
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